I was excited, too, when I saw Alexander Chee’s story about his offhand remark that resulted in a sweet train ride–during which he was free to write or revise, stare out the window as the country rolled by, or nibble on free food, delivered at appropriate intervals, to his “suite.” Read more…
We left with a vulture who needed to have a wing amputated. Dropped him off at vet 1 (in private practice at South Africa’s only veterinary school), then drove 3 hours to pick up a vulture with a broken wing and a “brain damaged” martial eagle that had been hit Read more…
Today we cut up a cow for the birds: back legs to the breeding colony, front legs and head to the rehabbing capes & lappets, middle, for the restaurant. Also took two birds in for leg X-rays (sustained while children grabbed at them to “rescue” them from traditional medicine practitioners–snatching Read more…
The deep down disgust that a rotten, mostly-eaten cow carcass inspires is instinctual. It’s like jumping at a snake–something from deep down & back in our animal minds. Maggots are repulsive. And watching a flock chickens slurp them up from the hosed-down sludge from three cows in the back of Read more…
Some notes on arrival: -In the area, besides amazing birds like ibises and storks and of course vultures (!!!!), there are brown hyenas, leopards, kudu, duikers, klipspringers, and “lots of snakes.” None of this should worry me. -My room has a motion alarm, inside two locked gates. My alarm is Read more…
I didn’t think I’d make it. I was so damn tired yesterday afternoon (see also: 2 day flight), that I crashed out at 5pm. But the fireworks woke me up at 11:20. I bought a can of Black Label from the front desk and went to sit on a stone Read more…
Man. The two toughest things to figure out overseas: toilets and internet. At least so far, the toilets have been totally expected and intuitive. It has proven to be prohibitively expensive for me to get internet out of town. In town, I’m using a crazy old computer in 30 minute Read more…
It’s like Paris all over again, and I have no money. I blew some stashed dollars to hide out in a lounge and stretch out (sort of) and snore (probably). And also eat free biscotti and drink coke light. The lighting is soft & soothing in here. There’s an open Read more…
…starts in an airport. That’s the first rule of travel writing. And yet, that is where almost all of my adventure stories start. So, either my adventures are terrible, or my stories about them are terrible, or more likely… that’s a crummy rule. I feel like I’ve addressed this dumb Read more…